Pruning hydrangeas & other common shrubs made easy! Master timing, tools, and proper cuts for beautiful, blooming plants.

“When do I prune?” “How much is too much?” If these questions haunt your gardening dreams, you’re in good company. Pruning hydrangeas and other shrubs often feels like a gamble. But it doesn’t have to be. Let’s demystify pruning, so you can confidently nurture your plants and enjoy those breathtaking blooms.

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A garden scene featuring a vibrant display of white and blue hydrangeas in full bloom. The white hydrangeas are on the left, while the blue hydrangeas dominate the right side. A green wooden fence and lush trees are visible in the background under a clear sky.

Why We Prune

Before learning how to prune, it’s important to understand why we prune. Pruning hydrangeas and other commong ornamental shrubs is important for a number of reasons that include:

  • Aesthetics
  • Maintaining plant health.
  • Controlling growth and the overall size.
  • Encouraging fruit and flower production.
  • Creating topiaries or spirals.
  • Rejuvenating plants.
  • Safety

Understanding Growth Habit

Before pruning hydrangeas and other plants, we need to look at growth habits so we make the proper cuts for that particular plant. In general, shoots grow outward from shrub tips. So removing those tips stimulates lower buds to grow.

Where can the buds be found?

Do you know that spot where the leaves are attached to twigs and branches? These are called nodes. Depending on the type of plant, each node can produce one to three buds. There are two different growth types – mounding and tree-like. It’s important to discern which type of growth we are working with because we prune differently for each.

showing where the node is before pruning hydrangea
This is where growth emerges from a hydrangea paniculata. We need to make cuts to encourage a proper growing habit for this type of plant.

Mounding Growth Habit

Mounding growth shrubs have soft, flexible stems with a rounded crown and wide base. High mounding shrubs are typically tall and wide, requiring minimal maintenance with an occasional prune to maintain their growth habit. Examples of mounding shrubs include azaleas, spirea, and boxwoods.

Tree-Like Growth Habit

When shrubs have a tree-like growing habit (like a rhododendron), they have divided woody branches.

rhododendron and mountain laurel in full bloom in zen garden with staddle stone and stepping stones

Essential Pruning Tools and Keeping Them in Top Shape

Proper pruning starts with the right tools. Investing in quality tools and maintaining them correctly will make pruning easier, safer, and healthier for your plants. Here’s a rundown of essential tools and how to keep them sharp and clean:

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

Scissor type or anvil type pruners are used for cutting stems and small branches up to about 3/4 inch in diameter.

Maintenance

  • Sharpening: Use a sharpening stone or diamond file to sharpen the blade at a 20-25 degree angle. Sharpen regularly to maintain a clean cut.
  • Cleaning: After each use, wipe the blades with a clean cloth to remove sap and debris. For a deeper clean, use rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution to disinfect the blades and prevent the spread of diseases. Dry thoroughly.
  • Lubrication: Apply a light machine oil to the pivot point to keep the pruners moving smoothly.

Loppers

For cutting thicker branches, typically up to 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. The long handles of lopping shears like these provide leverage. Maintain your loppers similar to hand pruners as they require regular sharpening, cleaning, and lubrication of the pivot point.

Pruning Saw

Pruning saws are for cutting branches larger than 2 inches in diameter. Choose a saw with tempered steel blades for durability.

Maintenance

  • Cleaning: Remove sap and debris with a cloth and rubbing alcohol.
  • Blade Care: Some pruning saw blades can be sharpened, while others are designed to be replaced. Check the manufacturer’s instructions.

Hedge Shears

Hedge shears are great to use when shaping hedges and shrubs.

Maintenance

  • Sharpening: Sharpen the blades regularly to maintain a clean, even cut.
  • Cleaning: Remove sap and debris with a cloth and rubbing alcohol.
  • Adjusting Tension: Ensure the blades are properly aligned and the tension is correct for smooth cutting.

General Tool Maintenance Tips

  • Storage: Store tools in a dry place to prevent rust.
  • Rust Removal: If rust develops, use steel wool or a rust eraser to remove it.
  • Safety: Always wear gloves and safety glasses when pruning.

Why Sharp Tools Matter

  • Clean cuts heal faster, reducing the risk of disease.
  • Sharp tools require less force, reducing strain on your hands and wrists.
  • Dull tools can crush stems and branches, damaging the plant.
A vibrant garden filled with blooming hydrangeas. Most of the flowers are blue, with some in shades of pink and purple. Lush green leaves surround the blossoms, creating a rich, colorful scene under natural daylight.

Pruning Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs: Timing is Everything

Anytime that you prune, always know when specific plant flowers before making cuts because removing branches in different seasons can promote different things.

Pruning in late winter or early spring is typically the best time to prune because newer tissue forms quickly and you can see where you are making the cuts before the plant leaves out. For example, I tend to prune my hydrangea paniculata back on the first warm day in late winter/early spring.

With spring-blooming plants, don’t prune it until just after flowering because these types of plants set their buds on old wood. Pruning it at the wrong time will mean you cut off next season’s blooms and dramatically decrease flowering if it flowers at all.

Hydrangeas are a really good example demonstrating the importance of knowing when to prune at the right time. (We’ll talk specifically about hydrangeas below).

If a plant blooms in summer, prune in early spring before the buds set or immediately after flowering. Pruning in summer suppresses foliage and sucker growth while pruning in late summer or early fall causes vigorous growth.

So timing is everything because pruning in late summer or early fall can cause winter damage to plants that did not have enough time to harden off prior to winter.

pruning hydrangeas - Cutting hydrangea flowers for arranging and drying. How to Make a Hydrangea Wreath for Free

Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Timing is Everything

One of the biggest hurdles in pruning is knowing when to make those cuts. The timing varies significantly depending on the type of shrub and its flowering cycle. While hydrangeas have specific needs, understanding these principles applies to a wide range of ornamental shrubs.

Generally, we consider whether a plant blooms on ‘old wood’ (growth from the previous year) or ‘new wood’ (growth from the current season). This distinction dictates the best time for pruning to ensure you’re encouraging, rather than inhibiting, those beautiful blooms. To help you visualize this, here’s a chart outlining the optimal pruning times for hydrangeas and other common garden shrubs.

A table titled "Pruning Time" with columns: "Plant," "Pruning Time," and "Notes." It lists various plants like hydrangeas, forsythia, lilac, rose, with their recommended pruning times and notes on their care and blooming.
close up of endless summer hydrangea with blue flowers - How to Make the Best Compost Recipe

Pruning Hydrangeas

Since pruning hydrangeas is a popular question among my readers, knowing when and how to prune it is super important so you plant flowers. Therefore, it’s even more important to know what type of hydrangeas you have in your landscape to know when to prune them.

With hydrangeas, there are three different pruning categories that depend on whether the plant blooms on old or new wood. They are:

  • Hydrangea Macrophylla which blooms on old wood
  • Hydrangea Arborescens and Hydrangea Paniculata which blooms on new growth
  • Everblooming/Endless Summer Hydrangeas which blooms on both old and new wood

Everblooming and Macrophylla Hydrangeas bloom on old wood and should be pruned when flowers start to fade. It drives me nuts when I see landscapers cut hydrangeas back in early spring without a thought.

The general rule I follow is to leave them be until you know what branches are actually dead wood. If you cut them back between fall and early spring, they won’t flower because the buds were trimmed off.

White and blue hydrangea flowers in the garden

Hydrangeas that bloom on new growth should be cut back in late winter or early spring. As I mentioned previously, I cut my Hydrangea Paniculatas back hard on the first seasonable day in late winter/early spring and it blooms beautifully every fall.

Thus, your timing is critical!

And if you are not sure what variety of hydrangea you have, reach out to your local cooperative extension or master gardener program and ask them to ID the plant for you. The local cooperative extension and master gardeners are great resources for home gardeners.

close up of endless summer hydrangea macrophylla flowers as they fade in late summer - garden nj in the backyard in late summer with garden shed, raised garden beds and arbor

Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Types of Cuts and How to Make Them

In general, we prune with heading and/or thinning cuts. They are used for different purposes so it is important to understand the differences.

Thinning Cuts

When plants need more air and light, we make thinning cuts to aerate the plant. In general, we make thinning cuts to reduce shrub density so that more light, air, and moisture reach the main branches, stem, and roots.

To make a thinning cut, make cuts just above parent or side branches and roughly parallel to them. Then cut off suckers and smaller branches that take away energy from the main branches and add a lot of weight to the plant.

Thinning cuts do not promote new growth but rather help maintain good plant health.

close up of hydrangea paniculata before pruning in late winterpruning basics
Before pruning hydrangea paniculata in late February.
pruning hydrangea paniculata because it blooms on new wood
Hydrangea paniculata needs a hard pruning in late winter/early spring. It blooms on new growth in late summer into fall.

Heading Cuts

In the alternative, heading cuts promote new growth because cuts are made close to the node where buds form. So it’s important to note which direction those buds are because that determines where new branches will grow.

A really good example of this is my hydrangea paniculata. Whoever was taking care of these shrubs prior to us moving in was not pruning these correctly because it had the shape of a buzz cut instead of encouraging the branches to grow upward and outward. Thus, it is imperative to make cuts selectively when trying to control the overall size and maintain a natural form.

Look closely at where the nodes are and the direction they face. The only time you’ll make non-selective cuts is when you are making a specific shape like topiary or shaping a hedge. And that’s because you’ll be making these cuts often to retain the specified shape.

To make heading cuts, prune about 1/4″ above the bud on an angle that slopes down and away. Always cut on a 45-degree angle.

close up of nodes on hydrangea paniculata before pruning -pruning hydrangea
When pruning hydrangea paniculata, I look at where the nodes are and the direction they will grow before making cuts.
after pruning hydrangea paniculata with small boxwoods in garden
This is what my hydrangea paniculatas look like every year after pruning.

Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs to Maintain Plants

Now that we’ve covered how to prune, let’s chat about how to maintain or rejuvenate ornamental shrubs and woody plants. Here’s what you need to know.

Maintenance Pruning Tips

When growing ornamental shrubs and woody plants, sometimes we need to maintain their growth to keep them healthy and scaled with the rest of the landscape.

As a side note, it’s best to consider overall plant size at the time of planting, but sometimes home gardeners and landscapers don’t consider the overall growing size when planting because they want the aesthetic. So please read plant tags and know the overall size at maturity before planting because you’ll save yourself a lot of work maintaining your landscape plants. But I digress – back to maintenance pruning.

close up of endless summer hydrangea in backyard garden -pruning hydrangea tips

Removing Dead and Diseased Branches

All dead and diseased branches should be pruned when you see them by making thinning cuts well below the branch. This ensures that you removed what’s dead or diseased.

Mounding Shrubs

If you want to control the height of mounding shrubs, remove the longest branches inside the shrubs with a thinning cut so you can’t see where the cut is made. But don’t remove more than 1/3 of their branches to avoid plant shock.

Cane-Like Shrubs

To control the height of cane-like shrubs, such as roses, remove the tallest canes closest to ground level and thin out canes crowding the center to open up the plant. Think of it like a basket where you want the center to be open and allow more air, light, and water to reach the main stem, branches, and root system while preventing it from getting unruly.

hydrangea paniculata that was not pruned correctly and has a buzzcut shape -pruning hydrangea
This is a really good example of pruning gone wrong. Whoever was caring for this hydrangea, blindly cut across the top and created a buzz-cut shape that now needs to be corrected with proper pruning.

Tree-Like Habit

To maintain or control shrubs with a tree-like habit, remove branches that rub one another first. And much like cane-like shrubs, make thinning cuts to open up the center allowing more air and light to reach the plant.

Prune suckers where they emerge and any branches that touch the ground as well. Suckers are unnecessary plant growth and take away much-needed nutrients from the main plant. Thin these types of plants out first before making heading cuts and do not remove more than 1/8-1/4 of their branches to avoid shocking the plant.

close up of rhododendron in full bloom

Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Rejuvenating Pruning Tips

When mature plants become overgrown or have a lot of unproductive wood with deceased branches, it’s time to rejuvenate the plant. But before making cuts, consider the following factors:

  • Species variety.
  • Pruning at the right time.
  • Provide more care for hard-pruned shrubs and woody plants.
  • Think ahead to what the shrub will look like after a hard pruning.

There are two ways to rejuvenate a plant with pruning and that is through hard pruning or gradual pruning.

A few weeks after pruning you can see the new growth on this hydrangea paniculata - pruning hydrangea one month later
This is the hydrangea paniculata that I pruned one month later. Notice how the buds are growing up and out. It should have an aesthetically pleasing shape this year.

Hard Pruning or Extensive Rejuvenation Technique

Hard pruning means we cut the whole plant to roughly 6-10 inches above the ground. Since it’s a big chore, it’s best to use heavy lopping shears and/or a pruning saw. Remove half of the new canes that develop by mid-summer, and head back some of the remaining canes.

Not all shrub species can tolerate hard pruning, but those that tolerate it are:

  • spirea
  • weigela
  • forsythia
  • abelias
  • lilacs
  • rose of sharon
close up of Reblooming lilac in full bloom

Gradual Rejuvenation Pruning Technique

Gradual rejuvenation pruning is a little less aggressive than hard pruning because growth is removed gradually over the course of three years instead of all at once.

In the first year of rejuvenation, remove 1/3 of unproductive and old branches. The following year, we remove another third of the old branches. And in the last year, we cut out the remaining old and unproductive branches.

While this method takes longer over time, the shrub will look better during the rejuvenation process instead of creating a huge giant hole in the landscape.

As someone who has cut back my weigelas and forsythia hard, that gaping hole is very noticeable. If you do it, you may want to consider planting annuals around it after to disguise the empty spot during that season.

yellow flowers on forsythia that I'm cutting for a simple casually elegant centerpiece idea

How to Keep Pruning Tools Clean

As I mentioned earlier, it’s really important to keep pruning tools sharp so it makes better cuts and keeps clean tools to help prevent the spread of disease between plants. For best practices, it’s important to clean tools moving from plant to plant to minimize the spread of disease in the garden.

I tend to carry Clorox wipes around and wipe my tools off while I work, but I also use 1 part bleach to 9 parts water or 70% alcohol to clean pruning tools after working. After cleaning, tools should be thoroughly rinsed and oiled because the sharper the blade, the less damage to tissues will occur.

bright pink azalea in flower by the staddle stone and stone wall in the zen garden

Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pruning is essential for plant health and aesthetics, but it’s easy to make mistakes that can harm your plants. Here are some common pitfalls to watch out for:

1. Over-Pruning

  • The Mistake: Removing too much of the plant, leading to stress, reduced flowering, and even death.
  • How to Avoid It: Prune conservatively, especially when unsure. Remember the rule of thumb: you can always prune more later, but you can’t put branches back. Start by removing dead, damaged, or diseased wood and then assess the overall shape before making further cuts.

2. Pruning Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs at the Wrong Time

  • The Mistake: Pruning flowering shrubs at the wrong time of year, resulting in the removal of flower buds.
  • How to Avoid It: Understand the flowering cycle of your plants. Spring-flowering shrubs generally bloom on old wood and should be pruned immediately after flowering. Summer-flowering shrubs bloom on new wood and can be pruned in late winter or early spring. Refer to the pruning chart from before for specific plants.

3. Improper Pruning Cuts

  • The Mistake: Making cuts too close to or too far from the branch collar, which can hinder healing and increase the risk of disease.
  • How to Avoid It: Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where a branch joins a larger branch or trunk). Avoid leaving stubs, which can rot.
rhododendron and mountain laurel in full bloom in zen garden with staddle stone and stepping stones
Rhodendron and Mountain Laurel in full bloom with pink flowers

4. Shearing Hedges Instead of Selective Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs

  • The Mistake: Using hedge shears to create a dense, formal hedge without allowing light and air to penetrate the interior. This can lead to weak growth and disease problems.
  • How to Avoid It: While shearing creates a neat appearance, also perform selective pruning to thin out the interior of the hedge, promoting healthy growth. Remove some of the thicker branches deep inside the plant.

5. Neglecting Tool Maintenance

  • The Mistake: Using dull or dirty tools, which can tear plant tissue and spread diseases.
  • How to Avoid It: Sharpen and clean your tools regularly, as discussed in the previous section.

6. Topping Trees

  • The Mistake: Severely cutting back the tops of trees, which can weaken the tree, create an unnatural shape, and increase the risk of disease and storm damage.
  • How to Avoid It: Avoid topping trees. Instead, use proper pruning techniques to thin out the canopy and reduce the height of branches selectively.

7. Not Understanding Plant Growth Habits

  • The Mistake: Pruning plants without considering their natural growth patterns, leading to an unnatural shape or reduced flowering.
  • How to Avoid It: Research the specific pruning needs of your plants and observe their growth habits before making any cuts.

8. Pruning for Convenience Rather than Plant Health

  • The Mistake: Pruning a plant in a way that is easier for the gardener, but detrimental to the plant.
  • How to Avoid It: Prioritize the health of the plant over your own convenience. Sometimes a plant will need a more involved pruning process.
mountain laurel with pretty pink flowers
Mountain laurel with pretty pink flowers

After-Pruning Care: Supporting Healthy Recovery

Pruning, while beneficial, can be a bit stressful for plants. Providing proper aftercare helps them recover quickly and thrive. Here’s what you should do after pruning:

1. Watering

  • Deep Watering: After pruning, especially if you’ve removed a significant portion of the plant, water thoroughly. Deep watering encourages the roots to grow deeper and helps the plant recover from the stress of pruning.
  • Monitor Moisture: Pay close attention to soil moisture levels, especially during dry periods. Newly pruned plants may need more frequent watering than usual.

2. Use Compost and Organic Matter Instead of Fertilizing

Avoid heavy fertilization immediately after pruning. Wait a few weeks to allow the plant to recover. If you choose to fertilize, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer is generally a good option. Over-fertilizing can lead to excessive new growth, which may be weak and vulnerable to pests and diseases. Allowing the plant to heal before heavily fertilizing is preferable.

This is why I recommend adding compost, leaf mold and other organic matter instead. Doing so, will help nourish your plants while building healthy soil.

3. Mulching

Applying a layer of mulch around the base of the plant helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.

  • Application: Use organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, and apply a 2-3 inch layer, keeping it a few inches away from the plant’s stem.
A garden scene with a variety of flowers and plants. Bright yellow sunflowers stand tall in the center, surrounded by clusters of white hydrangeas. In the background, pink flowers bloom amongst lush green foliage under the sunlight.

4. Monitoring for Pests and Diseases

Pruning can create wounds that make plants more susceptible to pests and diseases. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of pests, such as aphids or spider mites, and diseases, such as fungal infections. If you notice any problems, take prompt action to address them.

    5. Observing New Growth

    Observe the plant for new growth. This is a sign that the plant is recovering well. If needed, make any necessary follow-up pruning adjustments as new growth develops.

      6. Cleaning Up Debris

      Remove any pruned branches, leaves, or other debris from around the base of the plant. This helps to prevent the spread of diseases. Proper disposal of diseased plant matter is very important. Do not compost it.

        blue and white hydrangea flowers in the backyard garden in my early summer garden tour in new jersey

        Final Thoughts About More Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs

        The most crucial takeaway in any pruning endeavor, especially with hydrangeas and other ornamental shrubs, is to understand the specific variety you’re working with. Blindly pruning can lead to the heartbreaking removal of next season’s blooms. Each plant has its own unique growth habits and flowering patterns.

        For instance, a bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) requires a different pruning approach than a panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata). Taking the time to research and identify your plants will empower you to make informed pruning decisions, ensuring healthy growth and a profusion of beautiful flowers.

        Remember, a little knowledge goes a long way in cultivating a thriving and visually stunning garden. I hope you feel more empowered to prune your hydrangeas and ornamental shrubs after reading this post. You got this!

        How do feel about pruning? Do you regularly prune your hydrangeas, ornamental shrubs and other woody plants? Do you have any pruning tips you’d like to share? Let’s chat more about it in the comments below.

        For more information about pruning hydrangeas, please read this article from the University of Maryland Cooperative Extension.

        Thank you so much for following along.

        Enjoy a beautiful day! xo

        Stacy Ling
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        9 Comments

        1. I have a old lilac that has orange spots on the branches and trunk. I was told because it snows here its probably mildew. It needs to be trimmed, can I just cut it all the way down in Spring and let it regrow?

          1. I wouldn’t do that with a lilac. You shouldn’t prune it now anyway. Wait until spring after it flowers and then take no more than 1/3 off. If you prune it now, you may cut all of your flowers off for next year.

        2. I just found your page and I am delighted with it, thanks a lot. Unfortunately, after reading I have a lot of doubts. I happen to live in the middle of the world (Quito, Ecuador), and we don’t have really seasons, so I don’t know how to behave correctly my hydrangeas, specially I wonder when to prune if I leave in something like an eternal spring with some hot and dry days and other rainy and cold ones.