Pruning hydrangeas & other common shrubs made easy! Master timing, tools, and proper cuts for beautiful, blooming plants.
“When do I prune?” “How much is too much?” If these questions haunt your gardening dreams, you’re in good company. Pruning hydrangeas and other shrubs often feels like a gamble. But it doesn’t have to be. Let’s demystify pruning, so you can confidently nurture your plants and enjoy those breathtaking blooms.
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Why We Prune
Before learning how to prune, it’s important to understand why we prune. Pruning hydrangeas and other commong ornamental shrubs is important for a number of reasons that include:
- Aesthetics
- Maintaining plant health.
- Controlling growth and the overall size.
- Encouraging fruit and flower production.
- Creating topiaries or spirals.
- Rejuvenating plants.
- Safety
Understanding Growth Habit
Before pruning hydrangeas and other plants, we need to look at growth habits so we make the proper cuts for that particular plant. In general, shoots grow outward from shrub tips. So removing those tips stimulates lower buds to grow.
Where can the buds be found?
Do you know that spot where the leaves are attached to twigs and branches? These are called nodes. Depending on the type of plant, each node can produce one to three buds. There are two different growth types – mounding and tree-like. It’s important to discern which type of growth we are working with because we prune differently for each.
Mounding Growth Habit
Mounding growth shrubs have soft, flexible stems with a rounded crown and wide base. High mounding shrubs are typically tall and wide, requiring minimal maintenance with an occasional prune to maintain their growth habit. Examples of mounding shrubs include azaleas, spirea, and boxwoods.
Tree-Like Growth Habit
When shrubs have a tree-like growing habit (like a rhododendron), they have divided woody branches.
Essential Pruning Tools and Keeping Them in Top Shape
Proper pruning starts with the right tools. Investing in quality tools and maintaining them correctly will make pruning easier, safer, and healthier for your plants. Here’s a rundown of essential tools and how to keep them sharp and clean:
Hand Pruners (Secateurs)
Scissor type or anvil type pruners are used for cutting stems and small branches up to about 3/4 inch in diameter.
Maintenance
- Sharpening: Use a sharpening stone or diamond file to sharpen the blade at a 20-25 degree angle. Sharpen regularly to maintain a clean cut.
- Cleaning: After each use, wipe the blades with a clean cloth to remove sap and debris. For a deeper clean, use rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution to disinfect the blades and prevent the spread of diseases. Dry thoroughly.
- Lubrication: Apply a light machine oil to the pivot point to keep the pruners moving smoothly.
Loppers
For cutting thicker branches, typically up to 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. The long handles of lopping shears like these provide leverage. Maintain your loppers similar to hand pruners as they require regular sharpening, cleaning, and lubrication of the pivot point.
Pruning Saw
Pruning saws are for cutting branches larger than 2 inches in diameter. Choose a saw with tempered steel blades for durability.
Maintenance
- Cleaning: Remove sap and debris with a cloth and rubbing alcohol.
- Blade Care: Some pruning saw blades can be sharpened, while others are designed to be replaced. Check the manufacturer’s instructions.
Hedge Shears
Hedge shears are great to use when shaping hedges and shrubs.
Maintenance
- Sharpening: Sharpen the blades regularly to maintain a clean, even cut.
- Cleaning: Remove sap and debris with a cloth and rubbing alcohol.
- Adjusting Tension: Ensure the blades are properly aligned and the tension is correct for smooth cutting.
General Tool Maintenance Tips
- Storage: Store tools in a dry place to prevent rust.
- Rust Removal: If rust develops, use steel wool or a rust eraser to remove it.
- Safety: Always wear gloves and safety glasses when pruning.
Why Sharp Tools Matter
- Clean cuts heal faster, reducing the risk of disease.
- Sharp tools require less force, reducing strain on your hands and wrists.
- Dull tools can crush stems and branches, damaging the plant.
Pruning Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs: Timing is Everything
Anytime that you prune, always know when specific plant flowers before making cuts because removing branches in different seasons can promote different things.
Pruning in late winter or early spring is typically the best time to prune because newer tissue forms quickly and you can see where you are making the cuts before the plant leaves out. For example, I tend to prune my hydrangea paniculata back on the first warm day in late winter/early spring.
With spring-blooming plants, don’t prune it until just after flowering because these types of plants set their buds on old wood. Pruning it at the wrong time will mean you cut off next season’s blooms and dramatically decrease flowering if it flowers at all.
Hydrangeas are a really good example demonstrating the importance of knowing when to prune at the right time. (We’ll talk specifically about hydrangeas below).
If a plant blooms in summer, prune in early spring before the buds set or immediately after flowering. Pruning in summer suppresses foliage and sucker growth while pruning in late summer or early fall causes vigorous growth.
So timing is everything because pruning in late summer or early fall can cause winter damage to plants that did not have enough time to harden off prior to winter.
Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Timing is Everything
One of the biggest hurdles in pruning is knowing when to make those cuts. The timing varies significantly depending on the type of shrub and its flowering cycle. While hydrangeas have specific needs, understanding these principles applies to a wide range of ornamental shrubs.
Generally, we consider whether a plant blooms on ‘old wood’ (growth from the previous year) or ‘new wood’ (growth from the current season). This distinction dictates the best time for pruning to ensure you’re encouraging, rather than inhibiting, those beautiful blooms. To help you visualize this, here’s a chart outlining the optimal pruning times for hydrangeas and other common garden shrubs.
Pruning Hydrangeas
Since pruning hydrangeas is a popular question among my readers, knowing when and how to prune it is super important so you plant flowers. Therefore, it’s even more important to know what type of hydrangeas you have in your landscape to know when to prune them.
With hydrangeas, there are three different pruning categories that depend on whether the plant blooms on old or new wood. They are:
- Hydrangea Macrophylla which blooms on old wood
- Hydrangea Arborescens and Hydrangea Paniculata which blooms on new growth
- Everblooming/Endless Summer Hydrangeas which blooms on both old and new wood
Everblooming and Macrophylla Hydrangeas bloom on old wood and should be pruned when flowers start to fade. It drives me nuts when I see landscapers cut hydrangeas back in early spring without a thought.
The general rule I follow is to leave them be until you know what branches are actually dead wood. If you cut them back between fall and early spring, they won’t flower because the buds were trimmed off.
Hydrangeas that bloom on new growth should be cut back in late winter or early spring. As I mentioned previously, I cut my Hydrangea Paniculatas back hard on the first seasonable day in late winter/early spring and it blooms beautifully every fall.
Thus, your timing is critical!
And if you are not sure what variety of hydrangea you have, reach out to your local cooperative extension or master gardener program and ask them to ID the plant for you. The local cooperative extension and master gardeners are great resources for home gardeners.
Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Types of Cuts and How to Make Them
In general, we prune with heading and/or thinning cuts. They are used for different purposes so it is important to understand the differences.
Thinning Cuts
When plants need more air and light, we make thinning cuts to aerate the plant. In general, we make thinning cuts to reduce shrub density so that more light, air, and moisture reach the main branches, stem, and roots.
To make a thinning cut, make cuts just above parent or side branches and roughly parallel to them. Then cut off suckers and smaller branches that take away energy from the main branches and add a lot of weight to the plant.
Thinning cuts do not promote new growth but rather help maintain good plant health.
Heading Cuts
In the alternative, heading cuts promote new growth because cuts are made close to the node where buds form. So it’s important to note which direction those buds are because that determines where new branches will grow.
A really good example of this is my hydrangea paniculata. Whoever was taking care of these shrubs prior to us moving in was not pruning these correctly because it had the shape of a buzz cut instead of encouraging the branches to grow upward and outward. Thus, it is imperative to make cuts selectively when trying to control the overall size and maintain a natural form.
Look closely at where the nodes are and the direction they face. The only time you’ll make non-selective cuts is when you are making a specific shape like topiary or shaping a hedge. And that’s because you’ll be making these cuts often to retain the specified shape.
To make heading cuts, prune about 1/4″ above the bud on an angle that slopes down and away. Always cut on a 45-degree angle.
Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs to Maintain Plants
Now that we’ve covered how to prune, let’s chat about how to maintain or rejuvenate ornamental shrubs and woody plants. Here’s what you need to know.
Maintenance Pruning Tips
When growing ornamental shrubs and woody plants, sometimes we need to maintain their growth to keep them healthy and scaled with the rest of the landscape.
As a side note, it’s best to consider overall plant size at the time of planting, but sometimes home gardeners and landscapers don’t consider the overall growing size when planting because they want the aesthetic. So please read plant tags and know the overall size at maturity before planting because you’ll save yourself a lot of work maintaining your landscape plants. But I digress – back to maintenance pruning.
Removing Dead and Diseased Branches
All dead and diseased branches should be pruned when you see them by making thinning cuts well below the branch. This ensures that you removed what’s dead or diseased.
NOTE: Be sure to disinfect tools to minimize the spread of disease while you are working. I like to use Clorox wipes in the garden as I work but you can easily dip your tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water too.
Mounding Shrubs
If you want to control the height of mounding shrubs, remove the longest branches inside the shrubs with a thinning cut so you can’t see where the cut is made. But don’t remove more than 1/3 of their branches to avoid plant shock.
Cane-Like Shrubs
To control the height of cane-like shrubs, such as roses, remove the tallest canes closest to ground level and thin out canes crowding the center to open up the plant. Think of it like a basket where you want the center to be open and allow more air, light, and water to reach the main stem, branches, and root system while preventing it from getting unruly.
Tree-Like Habit
To maintain or control shrubs with a tree-like habit, remove branches that rub one another first. And much like cane-like shrubs, make thinning cuts to open up the center allowing more air and light to reach the plant.
Prune suckers where they emerge and any branches that touch the ground as well. Suckers are unnecessary plant growth and take away much-needed nutrients from the main plant. Thin these types of plants out first before making heading cuts and do not remove more than 1/8-1/4 of their branches to avoid shocking the plant.
Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Rejuvenating Pruning Tips
When mature plants become overgrown or have a lot of unproductive wood with deceased branches, it’s time to rejuvenate the plant. But before making cuts, consider the following factors:
- Species variety.
- Pruning at the right time.
- Provide more care for hard-pruned shrubs and woody plants.
- Think ahead to what the shrub will look like after a hard pruning.
There are two ways to rejuvenate a plant with pruning and that is through hard pruning or gradual pruning.
Hard Pruning or Extensive Rejuvenation Technique
Hard pruning means we cut the whole plant to roughly 6-10 inches above the ground. Since it’s a big chore, it’s best to use heavy lopping shears and/or a pruning saw. Remove half of the new canes that develop by mid-summer, and head back some of the remaining canes.
Not all shrub species can tolerate hard pruning, but those that tolerate it are:
- spirea
- weigela
- forsythia
- abelias
- lilacs
- rose of sharon
Gradual Rejuvenation Pruning Technique
Gradual rejuvenation pruning is a little less aggressive than hard pruning because growth is removed gradually over the course of three years instead of all at once.
In the first year of rejuvenation, remove 1/3 of unproductive and old branches. The following year, we remove another third of the old branches. And in the last year, we cut out the remaining old and unproductive branches.
While this method takes longer over time, the shrub will look better during the rejuvenation process instead of creating a huge giant hole in the landscape.
As someone who has cut back my weigelas and forsythia hard, that gaping hole is very noticeable. If you do it, you may want to consider planting annuals around it after to disguise the empty spot during that season.
How to Keep Pruning Tools Clean
As I mentioned earlier, it’s really important to keep pruning tools sharp so it makes better cuts and keeps clean tools to help prevent the spread of disease between plants. For best practices, it’s important to clean tools moving from plant to plant to minimize the spread of disease in the garden.
I tend to carry Clorox wipes around and wipe my tools off while I work, but I also use 1 part bleach to 9 parts water or 70% alcohol to clean pruning tools after working. After cleaning, tools should be thoroughly rinsed and oiled because the sharper the blade, the less damage to tissues will occur.
Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs: Common Mistakes to Avoid
Pruning is essential for plant health and aesthetics, but it’s easy to make mistakes that can harm your plants. Here are some common pitfalls to watch out for:
1. Over-Pruning
- The Mistake: Removing too much of the plant, leading to stress, reduced flowering, and even death.
- How to Avoid It: Prune conservatively, especially when unsure. Remember the rule of thumb: you can always prune more later, but you can’t put branches back. Start by removing dead, damaged, or diseased wood and then assess the overall shape before making further cuts.
2. Pruning Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs at the Wrong Time
- The Mistake: Pruning flowering shrubs at the wrong time of year, resulting in the removal of flower buds.
- How to Avoid It: Understand the flowering cycle of your plants. Spring-flowering shrubs generally bloom on old wood and should be pruned immediately after flowering. Summer-flowering shrubs bloom on new wood and can be pruned in late winter or early spring. Refer to the pruning chart from before for specific plants.
3. Improper Pruning Cuts
- The Mistake: Making cuts too close to or too far from the branch collar, which can hinder healing and increase the risk of disease.
- How to Avoid It: Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where a branch joins a larger branch or trunk). Avoid leaving stubs, which can rot.
4. Shearing Hedges Instead of Selective Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs
- The Mistake: Using hedge shears to create a dense, formal hedge without allowing light and air to penetrate the interior. This can lead to weak growth and disease problems.
- How to Avoid It: While shearing creates a neat appearance, also perform selective pruning to thin out the interior of the hedge, promoting healthy growth. Remove some of the thicker branches deep inside the plant.
5. Neglecting Tool Maintenance
- The Mistake: Using dull or dirty tools, which can tear plant tissue and spread diseases.
- How to Avoid It: Sharpen and clean your tools regularly, as discussed in the previous section.
6. Topping Trees
- The Mistake: Severely cutting back the tops of trees, which can weaken the tree, create an unnatural shape, and increase the risk of disease and storm damage.
- How to Avoid It: Avoid topping trees. Instead, use proper pruning techniques to thin out the canopy and reduce the height of branches selectively.
7. Not Understanding Plant Growth Habits
- The Mistake: Pruning plants without considering their natural growth patterns, leading to an unnatural shape or reduced flowering.
- How to Avoid It: Research the specific pruning needs of your plants and observe their growth habits before making any cuts.
8. Pruning for Convenience Rather than Plant Health
- The Mistake: Pruning a plant in a way that is easier for the gardener, but detrimental to the plant.
- How to Avoid It: Prioritize the health of the plant over your own convenience. Sometimes a plant will need a more involved pruning process.
After-Pruning Care: Supporting Healthy Recovery
Pruning, while beneficial, can be a bit stressful for plants. Providing proper aftercare helps them recover quickly and thrive. Here’s what you should do after pruning:
1. Watering
- Deep Watering: After pruning, especially if you’ve removed a significant portion of the plant, water thoroughly. Deep watering encourages the roots to grow deeper and helps the plant recover from the stress of pruning.
- Monitor Moisture: Pay close attention to soil moisture levels, especially during dry periods. Newly pruned plants may need more frequent watering than usual.
2. Use Compost and Organic Matter Instead of Fertilizing
Avoid heavy fertilization immediately after pruning. Wait a few weeks to allow the plant to recover. If you choose to fertilize, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer is generally a good option. Over-fertilizing can lead to excessive new growth, which may be weak and vulnerable to pests and diseases. Allowing the plant to heal before heavily fertilizing is preferable.
This is why I recommend adding compost, leaf mold and other organic matter instead. Doing so, will help nourish your plants while building healthy soil.
3. Mulching
Applying a layer of mulch around the base of the plant helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
- Application: Use organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, and apply a 2-3 inch layer, keeping it a few inches away from the plant’s stem.
4. Monitoring for Pests and Diseases
Pruning can create wounds that make plants more susceptible to pests and diseases. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of pests, such as aphids or spider mites, and diseases, such as fungal infections. If you notice any problems, take prompt action to address them.
5. Observing New Growth
Observe the plant for new growth. This is a sign that the plant is recovering well. If needed, make any necessary follow-up pruning adjustments as new growth develops.
6. Cleaning Up Debris
Remove any pruned branches, leaves, or other debris from around the base of the plant. This helps to prevent the spread of diseases. Proper disposal of diseased plant matter is very important. Do not compost it.
Final Thoughts About More Pruning Hydrangeas and Ornamental Shrubs
The most crucial takeaway in any pruning endeavor, especially with hydrangeas and other ornamental shrubs, is to understand the specific variety you’re working with. Blindly pruning can lead to the heartbreaking removal of next season’s blooms. Each plant has its own unique growth habits and flowering patterns.
For instance, a bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) requires a different pruning approach than a panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata). Taking the time to research and identify your plants will empower you to make informed pruning decisions, ensuring healthy growth and a profusion of beautiful flowers.
Remember, a little knowledge goes a long way in cultivating a thriving and visually stunning garden. I hope you feel more empowered to prune your hydrangeas and ornamental shrubs after reading this post. You got this!
How do feel about pruning? Do you regularly prune your hydrangeas, ornamental shrubs and other woody plants? Do you have any pruning tips you’d like to share? Let’s chat more about it in the comments below.
For more information about pruning hydrangeas, please read this article from the University of Maryland Cooperative Extension.
Thank you so much for following along.
Enjoy a beautiful day! xo
Beyond Pruning Hydrangeas: Everything You Need to Know For Gorgeous Blooms
- The Complete Guide to Hydrangea Care and Their Flowers
- The Basics of Hydrangea Care
- How to Dry a Hydrangea the Easy Way
- How to Divide Hydrangeas
- 7 Easy Steps to Propagating Hydrangeas
- Why Aren’t My Hydrangeas Blooming?
- Why Aren’t My Hydrangeas Blooming – Update?
- Are Hydrangeas Deer Resistant?
- How to Prune Hydrangeas
- How to Make a Hydrangea Wreath for Free
