Christmas Cactus Care: A Guide to Beautiful Year-Round Blooms
Learn how to care for a Christmas cactus, including watering, light, soil, and the fall conditions it needs to set buds and bloom.
Christmas Cacti, aka Schlumbergera bridgesii, is a small genus of cacti that is super simple to grow. With the right amount of light, water, and seasonal care, these long-lived plants can grow and bloom for decades.
Mine is proof of that. I bought my Christmas cactus at the grocery store for about $5 almost 20 years ago when I was getting back on the houseplant horse. It was tiny at the time, and I’m still growing that same plant today. It has moved with me, grown considerably, and bloomed again and again over the years. It is easily one of my favorite houseplants.
One of the things I’ve learned from growing it for so long is that Christmas cactus isn’t difficult to care for, but understanding what it needs makes a big difference, particularly when it comes to watering, light, and encouraging those beautiful blooms. If you’re newer to growing plants indoors or want a refresher on the basics, start with my houseplant care guide, where I cover the fundamentals that apply to your entire indoor plant collection.
Here, I’ll walk you through everything I’ve learned about Christmas cactus care, including the best light, watering, soil, temperature, and growing conditions, plus how to encourage your plant to bloom and keep it thriving for years to come.
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Quick Guide to Christmas Cactus Care
- Light: Give Christmas cactus bright, indirect light. Mine does well near a bright window during the colder months. If you move yours outdoors for summer, choose a shady or protected location and acclimate it gradually to prevent leaf scorch.
- Watering: Water thoroughly when the upper layer of potting mix begins to dry, then allow excess water to drain. Don’t rely on a weekly schedule. Check the soil first and adjust according to the plant, season, light, and conditions in your home. My guide to watering indoor plants explains how I determine when my houseplants actually need water.
- Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix. A commercial succulent mix works well, or you can create your own by combining two parts potting soil with one part sand or vermiculite. These plants prefer to be slightly root-bound.
- Temperature: Maintain temperatures between 60-70°F (15-21°C). Cooler temperatures, specifically around 60°F, can encourage blooming. Avoid cold or hot drafts.
- Humidity: Christmas cactus appreciates more humidity than desert cacti. Keep it away from drying heat vents and extreme temperature fluctuations.
- Fertilizing: Feed with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every few months during the growing season (spring and summer). Fertilize in late winter/early spring and a few times throughout the summer, before allowing the plant to go dormant in the fall.
- Common Pest and Disease: Watch for mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. Root rot can occur if the soil is kept too wet.
- Plant toxicity to cats and dogs: Based on research outside of the provided article, Christmas cacti are considered non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. However, ingesting the fibrous plant material can cause mild stomach upset, such as vomiting and diarrhea. It’s best to keep the plant out of reach of curious pets.
- Propagating: It is easy to grow new plants from cuttings. This makes it simple to share the plant with friends and family.

About Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus is a tropical cactus native to Brazil, where these plants grow in humid forest environments rather than hot, dry deserts. That distinction helps explain why Christmas cactus care differs from the care you might give a typical desert cactus.
They can also be remarkably long-lived. As I mentioned earlier, the little Christmas cactus I picked up at the grocery store almost 20 years ago is still growing and blooming today. With good care, this is truly a plant you can enjoy for decades.

Christmas Cactus vs. Thanksgiving Cactus vs. Easter Cactus: What’s the Difference?
Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter cacti are often confused with one another, and it’s easy to see why. They’re all commonly sold as holiday cacti and have similar growing habits and colorful flowers.
One of the easiest ways to tell them apart is by looking closely at the shape of their stem segments:
- Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera × buckleyi): The segments have smoother, more rounded or scalloped edges.
- Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata): The segments have more pronounced pointed or claw-like edges.
- Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri): The segments have rounded edges and the plant typically flowers in spring.
Bloom timing can offer another clue, although I wouldn’t rely on that alone. Indoor growing conditions can shift flowering times, and I’ve learned firsthand that holiday cacti don’t always follow the calendar as neatly as their common names suggest.ook – you’ll notice the subtle differences. It’s like a fun botanical puzzle!

Christmas Cactus Care: How to Keep Your Plant Thriving
Christmas cactus may have “cactus” in its name, but it grows very differently from the desert cacti many of us are familiar with. Native to the tropical forests of Brazil, it prefers bright, indirect light, a well-draining growing medium, and more consistent moisture and humidity than a typical desert cactus.
Here’s what I’ve learned from growing mine for decades.
Christmas Cactus Light Conditions
Christmas cactus grows best in bright, indirect light. Mine spends the colder months in my sunroom, where it gets beautiful northern and western light and has done incredibly well for years.
If you’re not sure what kind of light your windows provide, my guide to indoor light conditions for houseplants will help you determine what you have and where your plants will grow best.
Come summer, I move my Christmas cactus outside to a protected spot on the back porch where it gets plenty of indirect light and fresh air. When moving a houseplant outdoors, I gradually acclimate it to the stronger outdoor light rather than moving it directly into a brighter location, which can scorch the foliage.
Interestingly, mine often starts blooming after I move it outdoors. After almost 20 years with this plant, I’ve learned that it responds really well to those seasonal changes.
When temperatures start dropping in fall, I bring it back inside before frost. I used to worry about making that transition complicated, but mine has always handled the move back indoors without any trouble.
It really is a tough, adaptable plant, which is one of the reasons I recommend Christmas cactus to newer indoor gardeners who are still building their confidence.

Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
Christmas cactus needs a loose, well-draining potting mix that allows plenty of air around the roots while still holding some moisture. Remember, this is a tropical, epiphytic cactus, not a desert cactus, so the goal isn’t bone-dry soil. It’s a growing medium that drains well and doesn’t stay soggy.
Christmas cactus also tends to bloom well when slightly snug in its pot, so don’t be too quick to repot. When you do, choose a container only slightly larger than the existing one and make sure it has good drainage.
I’ve only repotted mine a handful of times over almost 20 years. I moved it into larger containers as it grew, but now that it’s established in a good-sized pot, I mostly leave it alone. It’s been perfectly happy that way.
Watering Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus likes more consistent moisture than a typical desert cactus, but it doesn’t want to sit in wet soil. I let the upper layer of potting mix begin to dry before watering thoroughly and allowing the excess to drain.
How often that happens changes throughout the year. Temperature, light, humidity, pot size, and how actively the plant is growing all affect how quickly the soil dries. That’s why I don’t recommend watering Christmas cactus on a rigid schedule.
I always check the soil first. If you’re not sure how to tell when a plant actually needs water, my guide to watering indoor plants walks through the methods I use to check moisture instead of guessing. A moisture meter can also be helpful, particularly while you’re learning how quickly the soil dries in your home.
For some real-life context, mine may need water about every other week indoors during the colder months, while outside during hot summer weather I might water it closer to once a week. But I still check the soil first. Those are examples of what my plant needs under my conditions, not a schedule I follow automatically.

Temperature and Humidity for Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus does well in typical indoor temperatures, generally around 60 to 70°F, but cooler temperatures become particularly important when you’re trying to encourage buds to form in fall. I’ll explain that process in more detail in the blooming section below.
Because Christmas cactus is native to humid tropical environments, it appreciates more humidity than a desert cactus. Keep it away from drying heat vents, cold drafts, and sudden temperature changes, particularly once buds begin forming.
If the air in your home gets especially dry during winter, a humidifier can help. I’ve used one in my sunroom for houseplants that appreciate higher humidity, and I’ve found it much more useful than trying to manage individual plants with pebble trays.
Fertilizing Christmas Cactus Plant
Christmas cactus benefits from feeding while it’s actively growing, particularly during spring and summer.
My fertilizing routine has changed over the years. I used to apply a slow-release fertilizer several times during the growing season. These days, I prefer using a gentle organic liquid fertilizer when I water during active growth. I’ve been using this approach with my houseplants for the last few years and have been really happy with how they respond.
As fall approaches and I’m looking for my Christmas cactus to shift from active growth toward setting buds, I back off on feeding rather than continuing to encourage lots of new growth.

Common Christmas Cactus Pests and Diseases
In almost 20 years of growing my Christmas cactus, I’ve been fortunate that I haven’t had any issues with pests or diseases. Mine has been an incredibly healthy, trouble-free plant, which is another reason I consider Christmas cactus such an easy houseplant to grow.
That said, problems can happen, so it helps to know what to watch for.
Common Pests
Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites can occasionally affect Christmas cactus. Check the plant closely if you notice discoloration, stippling, webbing, sticky residue, or visible insects.
For a small infestation, isolate the plant and remove as many pests as possible by hand. Depending on the pest, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can also be used according to the product directions.
Root Rot
Root problems are more likely when the potting mix remains wet for too long. A Christmas cactus may look wilted or limp even though the soil is still moist, while damaged roots can appear brown, soft, or mushy.
Good drainage and proper watering are your best defense. I always check the soil before watering rather than following a set schedule, which has worked well for mine for almost two decades.
If you discover significant root damage, remove the affected roots and repot the plant in fresh, well-draining potting mix. If the root system is too far gone, healthy stem segments can often be propagated to save the plant.
Botrytis Blight
Botrytis, sometimes called gray mold, can develop when conditions remain overly damp with poor air circulation. Remove affected plant material and improve airflow around the plant.
If your Christmas cactus is struggling and you’re not sure what’s wrong, my guide to reviving a struggling houseplant can help you work through watering, roots, light, and other potential causes before deciding what to change.

How to Propagate Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera)
Christmas cactus is incredibly easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Take a healthy cutting with two or three segments, allow the cut end to dry for a day or two, and then place it in a small container of lightly moist, well-draining potting mix.
I’ve propagated my Christmas cactus a few times over the years, and funny enough, neither time was really planned.
The first time, a small piece simply broke off. Instead of tossing it, I stuck it into the soil of another houseplant to see what would happen. It rooted! It’s actually still growing in that pot, and I keep meaning to dig it out and give it a home of its own.
More recently, a much larger branch broke off while my Christmas cactus was flowering. I was devastated when it happened, but since I’d had such good luck with that first accidental cutting, I decided to try again. I filled a pot with fresh soil, planted the broken branch, and hoped for the best.
What surprised me most was that it held onto its flowers while it rooted. That cutting eventually established itself and has grown into a strong plant of its own.
After almost 20 years with the original plant, I love that I now have new plants growing from it too. And considering my first successful propagation happened almost entirely by accident, this really is one of the easiest houseplants I’ve propagated.

How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Rebloom
Christmas cactus can bloom more than once a year, and mine is proof. I’ve been growing the same plant for almost 20 years, and it often blooms two or three times throughout the year.
The key to getting a Christmas cactus to bloom is understanding what triggers flower formation. These are short-day plants, which means shorter days, longer uninterrupted nights, and cooler temperatures help signal the plant to set buds. Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti generally need about six weeks of these conditions to initiate flowering.
How to Encourage Christmas Cactus Blooms
For the most reliable flowering:
- Give it long, uninterrupted nights. Aim for at least 12 hours of complete darkness each night for roughly six weeks. Some varieties may need closer to 14 to 16 hours. Artificial light from lamps and other indoor lighting can interfere with bud formation.
- Keep temperatures cooler. Night temperatures around 55 to 65°F encourage flowering. At about 55°F, some Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti may initiate blooms regardless of day length.
- Don’t overwater. Pay attention to soil moisture as growth slows, but don’t let a budding or flowering plant become excessively dry because that can contribute to bud drop.
- Keep conditions consistent once buds form. Sudden changes in temperature, moisture, light, or location can cause developing buds to drop.
What Works for My Christmas Cactus
Here’s where my experience gets interesting. I don’t put my Christmas cactus in a closet or cover it every night to force it to bloom.
Mine spends the summer outdoors in a protected, shady spot. Before I started regularly moving my houseplants outside for summer, my Christmas cactus generally bloomed once, sometimes twice, a year. Once I started giving it that outdoor summer vacation, I began seeing blooms more frequently.
Mine has bloomed around May or June, again in August, and then around November. It doesn’t follow that exact schedule every year, but I’ve seen it flower as many as three times in one year.
I think the seasonal changes it experiences outdoors are a big part of that. As summer winds down here in New Jersey, the days naturally get shorter and nighttime temperatures begin dropping. Those are exactly the environmental cues that encourage Christmas cactus to set flower buds. Extension recommendations actually include allowing holiday cactus to remain outside in a protected location as days shorten and nights cool, bringing it inside before frost.
I also feed mine during its active growing season, but after almost 20 years with this plant, I’ve found that light and temperature changes are much more important to blooming than trying to fertilize your way into more flowers.
And that’s one of the reasons I love growing Christmas cactus. Mine has developed its own rhythm over the years, and instead of trying to force it onto a rigid schedule, I work with the seasonal changes that already seem to make it happy.
Can a Christmas Cactus Bloom More Than Once a Year?
Yes. Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti can rebloom when they’re given the appropriate conditions again after their initial flowering period.

Why Won’t My Christmas Cactus Bloom?
If your Christmas cactus isn’t blooming, don’t assume you’re doing something terribly wrong. A healthy plant can grow beautifully but fail to set buds if it isn’t getting the seasonal cues it needs to flower.
If mine weren’t blooming, these are the first things I’d look at:
- Too much light at night. Christmas cactus is a short-day plant, so long periods of uninterrupted darkness help trigger bud formation. Indoor lamps and other artificial light in the evening can interfere with that natural cycle.
- Temperatures are too warm. Cooler fall temperatures work together with shorter days to encourage flower buds to form.
- The plant hasn’t experienced enough seasonal change. This is one reason I think moving mine outdoors for summer has made such a difference. As summer winds down, it naturally experiences shorter days and cooler nights.
- Conditions changed after buds formed. Sudden changes in temperature, moisture, light, or location can cause developing buds to drop before they open.
- The plant is stressed. A Christmas cactus that’s struggling with overly wet soil, damaged roots, or another growing problem may not be in the best condition to produce flowers.
I’ve never put my Christmas cactus in a closet or covered it every night to make it bloom. Mine spends summer outside in a protected location and comes back indoors before frost. That seasonal rhythm has worked beautifully for me, and it was after I started bringing the plant outdoors for summer that I began noticing more frequent bloom cycles.
If your Christmas cactus isn’t blooming, I’d start with light and temperature before reaching for fertilizer. Give it the shorter days, longer nights, and cooler temperatures it naturally responds to, then give it some time.

Bring the Gardening Lifestyle Indoors
One of the reasons my Christmas cactus is still one of my favorite houseplants after almost 20 years is that it keeps my gardening life going even after the outdoor garden winds down. There’s something special about having plants growing and blooming inside while everything outside is settling in for winter.
That connection between the garden and home is at the heart of my book, Filling Your Home with Life. I share how to choose the right houseplants for your space, care for them with confidence, troubleshoot common problems, and style them throughout your home so it feels warm, collected, and alive all year long.
If you love gardening outside but haven’t felt quite as confident growing plants indoors, or simply want to make houseplants a bigger part of how you live and decorate, I wrote this book for you.
Order Filling Your Home with Life here.

Final Thoughts About Christmas Cactus Care
After growing the same Christmas cactus for almost 20 years, I can tell you this is one houseplant that is well worth growing. Mine started as a tiny $5 grocery store plant, and today it’s still going strong, blooming year after year and easily earning its place among my favorite houseplants.
The biggest thing I’ve learned is that Christmas cactus care doesn’t need to be complicated. Give it the right light, pay attention to when it actually needs water, and understand the seasonal changes that encourage it to set buds and bloom.
If you’re growing other indoor plants too, my houseplant care guide covers the basics that apply across your collection. And if watering is something you tend to struggle with, my guide to watering indoor plants can help you learn to read the soil and your plants instead of relying on a schedule.
Are you growing a Christmas cactus? I’d love to hear how old yours is, when it typically blooms, and any growing tips you’ve learned along the way in the comments below. For more information about Christmas Cactus care, please read this article from Michigan State University Cooperative Extension.
Thank you so much for visiting my blog today!
I really appreciate you stopping by.
Enjoy a beautiful day! xo










Originally Published . Last Updated .

Stacy,
I really need all the help I can get when it comes to house plants. I appreciate your posts.
Rachel.
Thank you Rachel! If you don’t have one of these try it. You will appreciate how easy it is to care for and LOVE when it blooms!
Last year I bought one loaded with buds. Every last bud fell off and it didn’t bloom. I put it in a bucket outside and kept it watered. It was full of blooms this year.
I used to have a lot of them, but the feral cat got so mad because he couldn’t go out, he dug up the dirt in my Christmas cactus and p’d in them. Killed all of them !
Awe that’s too bad! Will you try again?
A variation on the theme—-I use bamboo skewers that I can leave in my potted plants (hidden in the foliage) to test the root zone before watering. They are cheap and can be easily trimmed to size for the pot &/or plant.
That is a great idea!
This is the one plant that I don’t have! My Mom has one that given to her that’s over 50 years old now…it’s huge!!
I’ll tell you – they can live for SO LONG. I love mine it is so fun to grow. You’ve got to get one!
The Christmas Cactus is my favorite indoor plant too. I’ve had mine for over 30 years. It blooms every November and looks beautiful. Tried rooting some new plants from it last spring with some some success ( I put cuttings in water to root which took forever) Going to try rooting in soil next and getting it to flower more than once a year. Thanks for your tips!
Aren’t they so fun? I haven’t tried rooting them in water – when I put the cuttings in soil I literally left them alone for several months (Didn’t try to pull them or anything). I was surprised that huge branch rooted. It broke off in late fall, flowered, and still looks great! Such a fun plant to grow!
My thanksgiving cactus is now a year old. I am so proud that it survived me a whole year ! And it is blooming!
That is awesome Patricia! Aren’t they so pretty when they bloom?
Question regarding my 3 small Christmas cactus bought 2 yrs ago in 3″ pots maybe 4″. (They’ve bloomed well.) Would these 3 plants do well if potted up together, or should each plant remain in its own pot, even when it gets repotted to larger pot?
You can pot them up together in a pot that would accommodate all three if you wanted. You can always break them up back into three plants later if you wanted later so you aren’t bound to it long term. It depends where you want to put them in your home and if you have the light and space for 3 pots. My mother plant started as a 4″ pot – I eventually bumped it to a 10″ pot and have not repotted it again since. It’s been happily doing it’s thing for so many years! I love this plant!
Thank you for this information. Our Christmas Cactus has bloomed in the past but not in a long time. I thought it would be dormant now and not need watering, but I guess that’s not correct. I will water her when she’s really dry and check with my moisture meter. I will also get some fertilizer. I’m not sure about short days and temps either. But I don’t have any place to move her around.
We’re in Astoria, Oregon and Zone 8b. Would she benefit from being outside in our Summers?
Thanks again.
Hi Robin! Do you bring it outside at all during the warmer months? My Christmas cactus really responds to that with blooms in late spring! I’m in 6b so my plant doesn’t come outside until May when it is consistently warm and out of frost danger.
Do you deadhead or cut these back after they bloom?
Hey Claudia!!! I usually pick the dead ones off before they hit the floor. It’s easy to walk by and just clean them up with your fingers.