Conquering Alocasia Plant: How I Finally Cracked the Code (and You Can Too!)

I’ve killed my share of alocasias… until now! Learn from my mistakes and discover the secrets to keeping your alocasia plant alive.

My experience with alocasia hasn’t always been stellar. In fact, it’s been downright disastrous at times! This was the first houseplant I ever grew – and promptly killed. And then I killed a few more. Yep, I’m a slow learner. Have you had this experience too?

But I’m not one to give up, and once I learned about their fussy nature, need for specific light, humidity, and the dangers of overwatering, I’ve managed to keep mine going for two years now – and you can too! Here’s how to do it.

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About Alocasia

Alocasias, affectionately nicknamed “Elephant Ears” thanks to their massive, striking leaves, have become a staple in the houseplant world. These showstoppers, native to the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Eastern Australia, come in a dazzling array of shapes, sizes, and colors. From the deep, velvety hues of the ‘Black Velvet’ to the mesmerizing variegation of the ‘Frydek’, there’s an alocasia to suit every taste.

I can’t get over their gorgeous foliage and have loved them (maybe a little too much) for several years. The last time I killed one, I swore to myself I’d get it right and I finally did! Understanding their fussy nature is the first step to growing them. They are particular about their needs indoors – here’s what you need to know!

Alocasia Plant Light Requirements

Alocasias are like Goldilocks – they need the light to be just right. Too much and they’ll scorch, too little and they’ll sulk. In their natural habitat, they thrive on the dappled light of the forest floor. Bright, indirect light is key. Think of a spot near an east or west window with a sheer curtain to filter the sun’s rays.

In my home, I keep mine in the sunroom on the west side of the room slightly away from the window so it doesn’t get hit with any direct light. It seems pretty happy in this location so that’s where my alocasia plant will stay.

Soil Conditions

Think of alocasias as being a bit dramatic when it comes to their roots – they need some air to breathe! Well-draining soil is crucial to prevent root rot, which is a common cause of alocasia demise. A mix that includes peat moss, perlite, and coco coir will provide the perfect balance of moisture retention and aeration. These divas prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5).

Humidity

Coming from tropical rainforests, these plants crave moisture in the air. High humidity is a must to keep your alocasia happy and thriving. If your home is on the dry side, you can boost humidity by grouping plants together, using a humidifier, or creating a pebble tray by placing the plant pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water.

Lack of humidity will cause some decline with these plants. So I group them with other plants in my sunroom, have a humidifier going, and get them outside during out hot, humid New Jersey summers where it thrives. If you bring your alocasia outdoors too, it’s important to keep them in a space that is completely shaded from sunlight.

Temperature

No cold shoulders for these tropical indoor plants! Alocasias prefer temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C). Keep them away from drafty windows, doors, and air conditioning vents, which can cause sudden temperature fluctuations.

This is important to understand because when you bring your alocasia plant outdoors to summer, nighttime temps should not dip below 65 degrees. Which is significant because you’ve got to watch the weather before caring for them outdoors.

Watering

This is where I went wrong for so long! Overwatering is the kiss of death for alocasias and I mostly overwatered mine during the winter months when they preferred less. While they like consistently moist soil, they absolutely hate sitting in soggy conditions. So I’d err on the side of underwatering instead of overwatering with this plant.

Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings and I would check about 1-2″ down into the soil before watering. And during the winter months, when the plant goes dormant, you can reduce watering even further. With these plants, less care is more during the winter.

I also suggest bottom watering these plants. You’ll do a better job watering your alocasia this way ensuring it gets a good drink!

Fertilizing

A little food goes a long way during the growing season. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly at half-strength during the spring and summer. No need to fertilize during the dormant period in winter. I like to use a slow-release fertilizer so it is set and forget.

Supporting Alocasia

Some of the larger alocasia varieties can get top-heavy with their impressive foliage. You may need to provide some support with stakes or a moss pole to prevent them from toppling over. Just be careful not to damage the stems or roots when staking.

Alocasia Plant Care: Common Pests and Diseases

Keep an eye out for these unwelcome guests! Spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids are common pests that can infest alocasias. A great method to keep them at bay is by using this systemic houseplant insecticide that lasts 8 weeks! It’s easy to use and works amazing!

If you spot any signs of infestation, treat them promptly with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Overwatering can lead to root rot, and you might also encounter leaf spot diseases. Prevention is key, so ensure proper watering and good air circulation.

How to Propagate Alocasia Plants

Want more alocasias? Here’s how to multiply your plant babies! Alocasias can be propagated through two main methods: division or stem cuttings.

Division

This method takes advantage of the “pups” or offsets that grow from the mother plant. It’s the easiest and often most successful way to propagate alocasias.

Supplies

• Clean, sharp knife or gardening shears
• Fresh potting mix (same as for mature alocasias)
• Small pots with drainage holes

Directions for Dividing Alocasia Plant

1. Carefully remove the mother plant from its pot. Loosen the soil around the edges and gently pull the plant out.
2. Identify the offsets. These are smaller plants growing at the base of the mother plant, often connected by rhizomes (underground stems).
3. Separate the offsets. Gently tease the offsets away from the mother plant, ensuring each offset has its own roots. If they are firmly attached, use your clean knife or shears to cut them apart, making sure to include some roots with each division.
4. Pot the offsets. Plant each offset in its own small pot with fresh potting mix. Bury them at the same depth they were originally growing.
5. Water thoroughly. Water the newly potted offsets well to settle the soil.
6. Provide proper care. Place the new plants in a location with bright, indirect light and maintain humidity. Follow the same care instructions as for mature alocasias.

Stem Cuttings

This method involves taking cuttings from healthy stems and encouraging them to develop roots.

Supplies

• Clean, sharp knife or gardening shears
• Rooting hormone (optional, but can help speed up the process)
• Small jar or vase
• Water
• Sphagnum moss (optional, for rooting in moss)

Directions for Propagating Alocasia With Stem Cuttings

1. Take the cutting. Select a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump on the stem where leaves emerge). Using your clean knife or shears, cut the stem below the node.
2. Apply rooting hormone (optional). Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone to encourage root development.
3. Root in water. Place the cutting in a jar or vase filled with water, making sure the node is submerged. Change the water every few days to prevent bacteria buildup.
4. OR Root in sphagnum moss. Alternatively, you can insert the cutting into a container filled with moist sphagnum moss. Keep the moss consistently moist but not soggy.
5. Wait for roots to develop. This can take several weeks. Once the roots are about an inch long, you can plant the cutting in a small pot with potting mix.
6. Provide proper care. Place the newly potted cutting in a location with bright, indirect light and maintain humidity. Follow the same care instructions as for mature alocasias.

Final Thoughts on Alocasia Plant Care and How I Redeemed Myself

You’ve got this! With a little patience and attention to detail, you can become an alocasia whisperer too. While they may require a bit more TLC than some of your easier-going houseplants like snake plants or spider plants, the reward of those stunning leaves is well worth the effort.

Don’t be discouraged if you lose a few along the way (like I did!). Just keep trying, learning, and adjusting your care, and you’ll be enjoying these tropical beauties in your home for years to come.

So, are you ready to give alocasias a whirl? Have you grown it before? What’s been your experience with them? Tell me about it in the comments below, I’d love to chat!

For more information about growing alocasia plants, please read this article from North Carolina State Cooperative Extension.

To drill down on houseplant care basics and growing an indoor garden that thrives, please read my articles:

• Easy Houseplants for Busy People: The Low-Maintenance Approach to Growing an Indoor Garden
• From Shop to Home: How to Acclimate Your Tropical Plants
• Stop Guessing and Master Watering Indoor Plants Like a Pro
• How to Revive Houseplants You Thought Were Goners

Thank you for visiting the blog today!

Enjoy your day! xo